🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.